Istanbul turned out to be far more European than I’d expected. In hindsight, that shouldn’t have surprised me—its history and geography have always made it a natural bridge between West and East, Europe and the mysterious world beyond. Swap the magnificent mosques for cathedrals and you could easily imagine yourself in any number of cities much closer to home.
Prices felt European, as did the lifestyle—at least in Sultanahmet, where I was based. I hadn’t realised Turkey is a secular state (albeit one with a large Muslim majority). Yet it’s as relaxed as any other secular country, and sinners like me are made to feel more than welcome.
What struck me most was how genuinely friendly the city felt. It wasn’t that slightly transactional friendliness you sometimes sense in big tourist hubs—the kind that’s more about lightening your wallet than brightening your day. Compared to London, Paris, and other major European cities, Istanbul came across as warm, open, and surprisingly generous.
Dr Martin James 